A view of Annot and the cliffs behind. Most of the developed climbing
takes place on the boulders in the wood on the far right-hand side of
this picture. The highest line of cliffs you can see in this picture has
just two routes on it (F8a and F8c, since you ask).
Introduction
Annot, within the Haute-Luberon region of Provence, is something of a
geological oddity: an impressive collection of sandstone cliffs and boulders
amongst all that limestone (the Verdon is only about 30 minutes drive away).
Though most of the developed climbing is on the boulders in the woods above
the railway station, the routes are usually 15-20 metres high and are, shall
we say, 'action packed'. The climbs follow strong lines usually, and are
reminiscent of The County, and the harder bits of High Rocks bizzarrely.
There are four marked bouldering circuits if you haven't had quite enough.
All the boulders are situated in delightful woodland full of the usual flora
and fauna. Pretty child-friendly too, as the number of families taking
picnics there testifies.
Aspect and climate
As with the rest of Provence, the best time to go for serious climbing
is Sept-Nov or Mar-Apr, before it gets too hot in the summer or too wet
in the winter. It can be rainy in April, but as most of the boulders are
free standing, drainage is not an issue, and some harder routes stay dry
in all but a downpour. All the climbing is on the north side of the
valley and so gets plenty of sun when it's out, but there is always
escape from it.
Getting there
and accommodation
Flights to Marseille can be as cheap as £50, from which a 3 hour drive
will see you at the crag. Nice is closer, only about 1.5 hours away.
Annot is well served by rail links, and all the crags are within easy
walking distance of the town. There is a camping and caravan site within
the town on the main road (D908 - towards Colmars & Barcellonnette), and
many hotels which only seem to open Apr-Sep. Self-catering studios are
available in Les Scaffarels (1km from Annot) courtesy of the very
friendly Mme and M. Limbertie (Tel: 04.92.83.25.27) and come highly
reccommended!
The local topo is available from Cafe du Commerce in the main square, or
from the climbing shop La Degaine (Tel: 04.92.83.35.02) which has
all the usual supplies. There is an EcoMarche supermarket just north of
Annot which shuts at 7pm, and the usual collection of boulangeries,
bars, etc. within Annot itself, and a tourist information center in the
main square.
Links
Grimp d'Azur
- where we first found out about this place. Has details of other local
climbing including the steep limestone gorge crag in Les Scaffarels
(F7b-8c). Annot website - local site for
tourism, etc.
More Annot
climbing photos from Bernard Cocatrix
There are many fine quality routes, taking slabs, aretes and overhanging
faces on pockets. All are very well bolted with large staple such as those
found at Buoux. The one downside to the place is the amount of holds that have
been created. Given that, they have been done in a very sympathetic way to the
rock and it may take you some time to realise the Buoux-like pocket you're
stuffing your fingers into is a 'work of art'.
This doesn't detract from the climbing, but it is annoying the lack of
imagination the developers of the crag have: all the hard routes established
are 'manufactured' from blank overhanging faces, while there are many
technically hard routes to do on the numerous aretes and slabs that lie
forgotten. It's as if the locals don't realise what good footwork and friction
can achieve. Anyway, suffice to say that the potential for new routes is
staggering and that (hopefully) these will be developed in a more ethical way.
Secteur
Comments and recommended routes
Le zodiaque
Some fine slabby routes to start off on and some high quality wall routes in the 'canyon'. Recently developed lower boulders features
one of the hardest routes in France. F5b-8c+
Taureau F5b - strong line and easiest route on the slab Astral F6a - great slabby climbing into a groove Estrane Ascendance F7a - some more pocket pulling, best climbed quickly Verseau F7a+ - a brilliant trip up a line of small pockets Arcane Majeur F7b+ - a powerful sequence through the bulges Star Pet F7c? - the huge 45 degree 'ships keel' on the lower boulders. Why have the bolts been removed? Vitamania F8c/9a - a long rising traverse on the steepest wall
L'etrave
Huge walls and aretes await you. Trouble is they haven't been climbed yet. Never mind - worth looking at. F5c-7b+
Les Grumeaux F6b+ - after a hard start, get onto the soaring arete and take that long lonely journey!
Le vaudois
Two sides to this block offer contrasting climbing: either nice slabby F5b/c, or the ferocious test-pieces on the rather steeper side. F5b-F8b
L'autumne F5b - very grit-like slab, even has pebbles Logique du Guerre F7c+ - awesome line of pockets, butch, but no really hard moves. Mind you, no easy ones either. Comme de Signe F8a+ - if you can climb this you are awesome. The F8b to the left looks loads easier.
Le bloc operatoire
Short and powerful routes on this little block. F7a-7b
Trachéo F7a - hard move to gain the flake Lobotomie F7b - steep, powerful moves into and up the hanging groove
Le visage
Only three routes, but the middle one is a classic, possibly the route of the crag. F6a-6a+
La Nez F6a+ - ever fancied doing The Nose in a day? Top pocket moves, one of the best at the crag.
Le bestiaire
The left-hand side has vertical wall routes that don't give anything away, while the right-hand side is a lot steeper, with some power-endurance classics. F6a-8a
Azraël F6c - brilliant arete problem between the two faces, but watch out - it's tricky! Egérie F7b - powerful yarding on pockets Satyre F7c - great moves past the small flake snaking up the wall make this a pump-fest classic Les Walkyries F8a - low crux followed by withering pocket work to the top of the groove and a tricky finish
L'airain
Only the right-hand block has routes on it - not the best. F5b-6b
La grande pyramide
Almost granite-like on the slabby front face, and some true gems on the back. F3c-6b+
Hyroglyph F5b - lovely big (for Annot) slab Osiris F5b - strong line following scooped pockets up a slab Papyrus F6b+ - well hard for the grade, but has some fine friction work at the top of the wall
La petit pyramide
Like its big sister, has some nice easy slab routes. F4c-5c
Les Météories
Some more boulders directly above the railway station, clearly visible from there as they look just like mini versions of their Greek name-sakes.
Slabs and walls on those strange large pockets and some steeper harder stuff tucked away round a corner. F4c-7c+
Castor F5b - slopey pockets Phenix F6a+ - very delicate rounded arete Black Cry F7b+ - big moves between big holds - dynamic
Roche de la Balme
Further up the valley (north-west), are a big sweep of slabs and some isolated steeper buttresses, set on the path to Col d'Argentier and beside a gorgeous river. F4a-F7b+.
Jardin du Roi
Bloody hell! Some potential here! As it stands there are a few routes about, but they don't look that good or are always wet, except for a F6c blunt arete. F5c-7b.
Les Oubliettes
Bloody hell! Some potential here! In contrast, they have actually put up routes in the canyon just behind where the path meets the crag (go right then left). 40m high pump fests, unfortunately all the routes are chipped or drilled, some so blatently we just turned round and went back to the boulders. A real shame. F7b-8c.
Pitchounette F8a+ - stunning overhanging arete, but why did they have to drill it into submission?
Maison Troglodytes
Not in the local topo. From the Chappelle Vers la Ville, built into the boulders itself, follow the path up the
hill-side all the way to the main cliff line above the town. Just left of an old cave dwelling are two super-steep
routes. One is supposed to be F8a and the other F8c. Impressive!
Getting there
and accommodation 
Les secteurs :